Living In Trastevere Could Be An Unexpected Nightmare

People love to recommend visiting the Trastevere neighborhood when coming to Rome, but this might be a nightmare for people who live in this community.

The neighborhood of Trastevere is full of cobbled streets, narrow streets and restaurants around every corner. These ivy-covered buildings are great for strolling around and the ubiquitous bars are perfect for sitting outside watching the world stroll by. When the sun goes down, however, it’s arguably a different story that anyone thinking of moving to Trastevere might want to consider.

What Caused This Opinion?

We have lived in Rome for more than 4 years, and even before moving here we were under the belief that the Trastevere neighborhood was a little fancy and beyond our means. When we looked for apartments, we did consider a couple in the neighborhood, but eventually chose a great place only steps from the Colosseum.

When we look at neighborhoods, we consider a lot of things. Certainly the prevalence of amenities like restaurants, bars, grocery stores and other things that make a neighborhood liveable. We also think about cleanliness and how the conditions of the streets could impact our dog.

Seeing Trastevere during the day always kept our opinions positive, but a recent early morning trip beyond the Tiber has certainly made us rethink our recommendations. What we saw were streets covered in garbage and the sanitation department struggling to handle the mess. It looked like garbage cans were intentionally dumped on every large and small street, but given the readiness of the sanitation crews, I think this is more the rule than the exception.

I Don’t Believe It!

I can understand why someone who has read about the neighborhood might not believe it. This opinion is not popular and goes against every article that I can find about the neighborhood. Everyone talks about the restaurants and bars, and that is definitely true. It is a lovely place during the day and early evening, but late at night and early mornings lead to a change in tenor and someone thinking about living in Trastevere should consider this.

Where Were We Walking?

I think it is very fair to ask where we were because while what we saw was pretty surprising, I don’t believe it is inclusive of the entire neighborhood. On a Saturday morning (which is important), we crossed the Ponte Sisto bridge and walked around Piazza Trilussa onVicolo del Cinque and other connecting streets.

Again, what we saw was limited to that part of town, and I don’t think it would be fair to suggest the road conditions were the same all around Trastevere.

What Are The Causes?

Without the opportunity to do a full sociological study, in my opinion, there are three reasons for this mess I saw on this Saturday morning:

1. Open Container Laws – This allows everyone to walk around with open bottles and glasses of alcohol. Please don’t get me wrong, I think the freedom to walk around with a drink or a beer is great! It is one of the surprises of Rome that I think is pretty cool. Unfortunately, the patrons don’t feel the need to throw their empties in the garbage, so the result is empty cups and bottles (some broken) on almost every flat surface.
2. The Bar Density – Again, by itself this isn’t a bad thing. Having a ton of options on where to enjoy a cocktail is one of the draws of Trastevere. However, the volume of people in such confined and small spaces leads to garbage cans overflowing and trash dumped into the streets. This includes restaurant garbage strewn all around. Old food cleared off of plates and other detritus that gets attacked by the pigeons in the morning.
3. John Cabot University – This isn’t a criticism of the university, but more of a cause of the crowd skewing younger with less of an attachment to the city. Many of us have experienced a Friday of partying during our college days, but usually these weekends weren’t in a historically beautiful and important city like Rome. These college aged students (obviously not all from JCU) most likely don’t have to wake u pin the filth they leave behind, so what do they care?

What Kinds Of People Lived In The Neighborhood Trastevere?

The area of Trastevere in Rome has a long history, and according to John Cabot University:

“Because the Romans were only interested in the Tiber for trade purposes, the land across the river was left for citizens to develop themselves. Fishermen, sailors, and immigrants built the Trastevere district from the ground up, making it the culturally rich and diverse neighborhood it is today.”

Today, the neighborhood maintains some of the highest rents in Rome and is packed with short-term rentals, restaurants and bars that cater to the tourists. People looking to spend more than a week here might want to consider some of these aspects.

Is Trastevere Still Cool?

Hmm… Is popular and cool the same thing? I would say: “no”, it is no longer a cool sought after place to live, but it is still popular with tourists and students. If you want to buy a property to rent to tourists, there is probably no better place in Rome. If, however, you want a beautiful place to live, away from the tour groups, there are better places.

Is It Safe To Walk In Trastevere?

Yes, this neighborhood is very safe, even given the crowds. Like every warning about Rome and Italy, you will want to be aware of pickpockets. Crowded streets, like crowded subway cars, are fertile grounds for pickpockets and other non-violent crime. Apart from that, you probably shouldn’t worry too much.

More Rome Neighborhood Information

Rome isn’t just a city you visit, it’s a city you experience, neighborhood by neighborhood. Each district, from the ancient Jewish Ghetto to Trastevere, offers a new perspective on the Eternal City. By stepping outside the usual tourist routes and into the local neighborhoods, you’ll gain a richer, deeper understanding of Rome’s cultural and historical fabric.