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Farmers Markets In Rome Are A Great Food Culture Experience

Farmers markets in Rome are one of the great food experiences in Italy giving travelers a chance to see an amazing food culture available around every corner.


Farmers Markets In Rome - Fresh Fruits and Vegetables

Fresh Fruits and Vegetables


One of my greatest pleasures in Italy is the availability of fresh fruit and vegetables around every corner. The taste of vine-ripened fruits and vegetables is one of the major reasons that the food in Italy is so good. These are fresh local ingredients at the perfect level of ripeness. This true freshness has a couple of unintended consequences. It makes the produce delicate to the touch and the fruit and vegetables don’t last at home very long. 

The Rules Of Farmers Markets In Rome

Regarding how delicate the produce is, there is a rule that every visitor should be aware of: Don’t Touch! In the US everyone feels that they have the right to poke and squeeze the fruits and vegetables, even if they are just looking. This isn’t acceptable in Italy and so you really have only two choices: Ask the vendor to select your food or grab a plastic glove and only pick up the food to put it in your bag. This doesn’t mean that you can bruise the fruit, only picking it one at a time and bagging it. Obviously there is a risk that you will pick something that isn’t perfect, but it is a small risk, which brings me to the second consequence of the freshness: the durability.

The Farmers Markets In Rome Have Amazing Fresh Fruit

The food in Italy is so fresh that the produce you buy from the street vendors (fruttivendolo) will not last like it does in the US. I don’t consider this a negative and it makes me shudder to think about the quality of the produce I’ve eaten in the past. Some things, like onions, seem to last a few days and maybe up to a week. Fruit will last from a day or two, as with cherries, to possibly a day or two longer with a nice melon. The big surprise for me is with carrots. Typically a durable vegetable that could last at least a week in my refrigerator in the US might last a day here in Rome before it starts showing age. This is not an exaggeration. We bought carrots that were perfectly orange yesterday that are already browning on the ends and feeling a little bit soft. Referring back to your inability to fondle the vegetables, your risk in picking bad produce is limited by the fact that you should only buy enough for a day or two, so don’t stress about it.


Farmers Markets In Rome - Watermelon

Yummy, Fresh Watermelon


Keep an eye out for the availability of other products that you weren’t expecting. Our vendor sells a range of herbs that saved me when I made a last minute change to my dinner plans. This isn’t so strange, but they also have stacks of bottles of inexpensive wine alongside the onions that I will eventually try. Another recent learning is that the bags that our produce vendor uses are also biodegradable, and can be used for organic food waste, which is important here in Rome where you need to separate your waste into groups for recycling.

Notable Farmers Markets In Rome

Depending on your neighborhood, there can be a seemingly unlimited number of places to buy your produce. We have reduced the amount of fresh fruits and vegetables that we buy in the supermarkets to only real emergencies and here in the historical center of Rome (Centro Storico) it was an easy change. There are options around every corner.

Italian Food And Culture

The other characteristic that is important to your planning is that these markets are very seasonal. The food you buy is at peak ripeness and will not be available out of season. During the winter months our fruit selection was unsurprisingly limited, but spring and summer have brought all those favorites back to our doorstep. For me, it is better to not have access to strawberries in December and feel that sense of longing, than to have flavorless berries from halfway around the world that are very expensive and not even red, like I would have done in the US.


Here are some markets of note. Most of which we enjoy, but see if you can find the exception:

  • New Esquilino Market (Nuovo Mercato Esquilino) – This covered market near Termini Station is a great example of how multicultural Rome is becoming. It is housed in an enormous industrial building not far from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. If Rome has an equivalent of a US-style Chinatown, this is on the edge of it. In addition to fresh fruits and vegetables, there are dried fruits and legumes, meats, fish and of course wine. Because it is so large, it can be a bit overwhelming, so I’ve chosen a few of my favorite stalls and tried to limit my purchases to them. This market is full of Italians, Bangladeshi, Sri Lankans and many others, which also makes available a range of produce from Africa and Asia that can’t be beat in Rome. One fun experience was getting there not long after opening and being greeted by nearly every vendor vying for my attention and wallet. Hours: Monday-Thursday, 5 am-3 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 am-5 pm

  • Testaccio Market (Mercato di Testaccio) – This is also an enclosed market in the previously working class neighborhood of Testaccio. It’s not far from the Piramide metro stop. I’ve read descriptions of this area as being gritty, but I disagree. This part of Rome, which used to be affordable, has been growing in popularity and is rivaling Trastevere in popularity. In addition to the great selection of meats and produce, there are also stands offering clothes, handbags and even Vino Sfuso, a favorite of mine. This market is also very popular with YouTube vloggers, so take a look at this video to see what it’s like. Hours: Monday-Saturday, 7 am-2:30 pm

  • Mercato di Campagna Amica del Circo Massimo – This market is in the heart of Rome, between the Roman forums and the Bocca della Verità and it is a meeting point for producer and consumer. There are over 60 farms with products for direct sale at zero km, guaranteed safe and of quality grown directly by the producers actually behind the counters. In this market there is a wide selection of fruit and vegetables, cheeses, oil, fish, bread and baked goods, cereals, flours and pasta, legumes, fresh meat, cured meats, honey, preserves, fresh milk, plants and flowers and more. You can eat in the outdoor courtyard where food trucks prepare typical street dishes: fried fish, vegetable soups, sandwiches with porchetta and grilled meat. Hours: Saturday and Sunday 8:00 – 15:00


Farmers Markets In Rome - Food Markets

This is Karela, a New Discovery For Me


  • Local Fruit Vendors – These vendors have stalls set up in the streets around Rome and have become our day-to-day produce provider. Just look around your neighborhoods and I’m certain you will easily find one. When I described the vendors above, I was mostly using our local vendor as an example. It is run by a family that is very passionate about what they sell. They put up with my poor language skills with a smile and they are ready to help us every day, except Sundays and holidays. Hours: can vary but typically morning, around 8:00 am, until the afternoon, 2:00 pm.

  • Campo dei Fiori – Here is an example of something trading off of its reputation. This one-time produce market in the heart of the historical center (Centro Storico) caters more to tourists than anything else. There is a very limited supply of fruits, vegetables and flowers, but a ton of inedible colored pasta, liquor in bottles shaped like genitalia and hats everywhere. For me, the only interesting part of this piazza is the statue of Giordano Bruno because it reminds me of Assassin’s Creed. Hours: Monday-Saturday, 6 am – 2 pm, but really, you should skip it.

You Should Experience Italian Food And Culture

You should make the time to visit these farmers markets in Rome and other cities in Italy, but just remember the rule: Don’t Touch the Fruits and Vegetables. After shopping at these markets, make some of these Italian favorites at home:

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